Dhaulagiri 1991.

The first independent Kazakh Himalayan expedition to Dhaulagiri (8167 m) passed the route along the Western Face. Head of the expedition Kazbek Valiev, head coach Yervand Ilyinsky, sports team: Valery Khrishchaty, Yuri Moiseev, Vladimir Suviga, Anatoly Bukreev, Viktor Dedy, Zaurbek Mizambekov, Vladimir Prisyazhny, Artur Shegay, Alexander Savin, Rinat Khaibullin, Andrey Tselishchev.
   According to tradition, before the ascent, the clergyman at the portrait of the lama tied red laces around each neck - for good luck and good luck, and only Dediy did not have a lace, because he filmed the ritual on camera. During the installation of the first camp, he was preparing a place for a tent, raised a stone slab, slipped, fell and the stone crushed his hand.
   The height difference from the base camp (3900 m) to the summit (8167 m) is huge, the route is combined, difficult in the middle belt. From camp 2 to camp 3 about eight pitches of very difficult climbing, from a height of 5500 two pitches of very difficult climbing were climbed by the group Khaibullin - Tselishchev - Bukreev. On the mountain, the team was caught by a terrible thunderstorm: for two hours there was ringing, crackling and hissing, the tents glowed. That night, a thunderstorm killed an Italian climber on Manaslu.
Everyone, except for the injured Viktor Dediya, made it to the top.
Rinat Khaibullin - 
Two overhanging ropes in one place could not pass the first attempt - a breakdown, Andryukha catches me, the second attempt is mentally preparing, I concentrate on passing, growling, warming up as I try before the route at the competition and again I fall, Andryukha catches, I look longingly at the section, then at Andrey with a question can you, he exclaims, I know what to do, he takes out the rice that Lama Pfurbu gave us in front of the wall (20 days ago), rice, he said he will help at a difficult moment, we must pray and throw aside the problem, to my question what are we we don’t know how to pray, he said that we can just scream, I gave my handful of rice to Andrey because it had to be put in a pocket above the waist, I had a suit without a breast pocket. Andrei takes out rice, throws it towards the cornice, we are two healthy, adults, in all seriousness, shouting something, and I start moving, automatically move a little lower (here there is more overhang), but I use the holds on which I tried to walk with my feet earlier (a section of traverse along the cornice ) and cheers, I pass, drive in the last rocky hook, climb out onto the ice, screw in the ice screw, then the ROAD on the ice, it’s already dark, the three of us are sitting with Buka and Andryukha.